That PL400 Polyurethane Glue is some strong stuff use it a lot. You will pull the wood apart before a glue joint with that Stuff.Originally Posted by GM
Hmm, I dimly recall being on individual product pages, so would have copied whatever was in the address bar.
Anyway, PL Premium is what I've used pretty much exclusively since it became available decades ago and Liquid Nails Sub-flooring/Decking for when I want it to stay elastic for constrained layer construction. What I want to try is the PL400.......
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Ditto the premium, but the 400 supposedly works on wet, frozen wood too, something I could have used last Fall doing the roof had I known about it.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
and...?
:coffeedrinker:
"[I]We're going all the way, till the wheels fall off and burn[/I]!"
Bob Dylan, from [I]Brownsville Girl[/I]
[I]"Time wounds all heels"[/I]
John Lennon, referring to the Nixon/Hoover deportation fiasco.
511B Restoration.
Before: Weathered, oxide patches and rough paint job done to areas visible from front-on.
Initial prep.:
1. Scrape off poorly adhering paint.
2. Sand with Norton NO-Fil A295, P80 to finish-off step 1.
3. Sand with Norton NO-FIL A219, P120 to smooth the surface further but still leave the exposed aluminium areas with enough 'key' for the Metal Etch Primer. You may prefer a higher grit number for a smoother surface.
4. Dust off, water wash and wipe down with tack-rag or rag dampened with a paint compatible thinners.
5. Apply Metal Etch Primer Coat(I use automotive aerosol cans). In the picture below the 'bells' are yet to be etch-primed.
Finishing:
Then comes the sandable primer/undercoat, body filler, primer undercoat, followed by the finish coats. Sanding between coats may be required and a touch up application of the previous coat applied before proceeding to the next stage.
Not difficult. Time will depend on level of finish required.
Dusty, dirty and smelly-outdoor job. OBSERVE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.
I have a can of paint stripper but have not needed it, so far. Hate using it. Hate cleaning ovens, too.
Cheers, Marshall.
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
Up and on castors.
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
Plenty of top/bottom bracing, I see, but those angled cross braces may reduce the efficiency of any 1/4 WL vent loading if it's a MLTL, i.e. they should be on edge to minimize turbulence.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Hi, GM.
All braces are on edge. Do you mean the left to right centre-bottom brace, which is taller than the front to back bottom braces, or the horizontal cross-braces across the middle of the sides?
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
Greets!
The ones across the middle and ultimately covered with damping. In acoustically small cabs for the intended BW, bracing orientation is irrelevant since there's a ~uniform particle density that just expands and contracts, but as the cab gets long enough in one dimension to make it have pipe action, then it begins to matter. Probably not much in a rectangular cab such as yours compared to a thinner, higher aspect ratio cab, but it doesn't hurt and pointing this out whenever appropriate hopefully will get folks to think in these terms when designing their own.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Thanks for clarifying, GM.
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
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